YDYtravelers: A blister-worthy museum-hopping day and some hardcore lounging for kids

I have a huge blister on my left pinky toe. That’s because we walked to and through three museums and then took the metro to the grand lady, Musee d’Orsay for an evening visit. I wouldn’t trade that blister for a different day. It was kind of perfect. I started out solo on a trek to the Hotel De Ville, where the Paris tourist office is located. My errand was to pick up our museum passes that we’ll be using for the next few days. The walk was early and serene, and I stopped for a coffee and croissant at a classic Parisian cafe on the way home (also I brought home chocolate croissants for everyone else - I’m a hero). Shortly afterwards, Mom, Jenny and I left for our day of museum marathoning without kids. They were very happy to have a relaxing day in at home, doing what they do.

Our first stop was the Musee de Cluny, a lovely little place in our neighborhood. It houses an impressive collection of art and objects from the Middle Ages, including the very enthralling The Lady and the Unicorn tapestries, which are interpreted as depicting the five senses - taste, hearing, sight, smell and touch on the first five tapestries. The last one, which displays the words “A mon seul desir” may represent love. Each of the images includes a woman depicted with a unicorn. Wowzer. Then there was a collection of little boxes, called caskets, which each had a secret compartment along with the main box part. There is much speculation as to what they were used for, but there’s no consensus about it. They are super cool, though, and if I had one, I’d probably keep my kitchen spices in it. Seems right.

Next, we three found our way to the Musee Eugene Delacroix, which is not surprisingly, a museum dedicated to the famed painter of the same name. It’s located in his last apartment, which included a beautiful, airy studio that opened onto a garden. I’d make art there. He was also a big proponent of other artists having studio space, so there are works from artists that center on the studio itself as well as some that shared studio space. Apparently, Delacroix was really into felines, large and small. That’s why we found paintings of cats and tigers (not together. Different paintings. House cats don’t hang out with tigers on the regular). The garden was a lovely spot to spend a few minutes in this peaceful part of the city. Afterwards, we headed to a nearby cafe to lunch. I had gazpacho of the French variety and it was good. Not Portuguese good, but good. We all drank wine and toasted the moderate weather. I wasn’t rained on at all today!

Post lunch, I wanted to visit the Crypt Musuem near the front doors of Notre Dame. When we got there, it was quite clear that no visiting would happen. The area surrounding the cathedral has all been blocked off, including the crypt entrance. Apparently, a bunch of lead burned in the fire last April and now, a coating of toxic lead exists on many surfaces. So don’t lick the pavement, folks - for that reason and so many others. Instead of the crypt, we spend more legpower walking to the Musee de L’institut du Monde Arabe, which highlights the Arab world from its origins to the present day (can you tell that I’m getting some of these descriptions from Wikipedia? I am). By the time we arrived, Mom was super tired, so she literally sat this one out, on the seventh floor of the building where the museum started. Jenny and I wound down through the exhibits to the fifth floor, so when done, we fetched the mama from 7. Musuem was nicely done and housed many interesting objects and exhibits. We were tired so our visit was pretty short.

The walk home was quick, which was a good thing, what with the wobbly Mom and blistered Ali. After a short rest, Jen and I changed museum partners and took George and Eliza to the always amazing, top of the list, best in the city, Musee d’Orsay. I love this museum. Can you tell? When Alex and I toured in 2017, I voted it best museum visit in Paris. It doesn’t disappoint. The sculptures on the main floor are compelling and textural. I want to touch all of them (don’t worry - I’m hands off). I had a bit of confusion when the Van Gogh and other post-impressionists and impressionists weren’t where I remembered them to be from my last two visits. Turns out they’d been moved to the 5th floor only two weeks ago, in a brand new exhibit hall. So, after eating a quick but tasty meal, seated right behind one of the museum’s iconic clocks, we enjoyed time with the masters. There were so many beautiful, striking, emotive paintings to see. Both the kids loved the d’Orsay and would like to try and return before we leave on Sunday. We’ll see..

We took the Paris metro to and from d’Orsay this evening. It’s my total favorite, the Metro. Our ride home from the museum involved one of the longest underground transfers I’ve had on the metro. We must have walked 15 minutes taking several escalators and a moving walkway to make our connection. There is art to be seen underground, though, so the walks were entertaining. Perhaps we can consider the metro the fifth musuem of the day. And now, after a full 12 hours of museuming, walking and metroing we are a tired lot. I bid you goodnight from Paris.