Sunday, September 15, 2019

Beach day - Portugal style

We had a lazy morning in the old house on the bridge in Tavira. We are all going to miss this place when we leave tomorrow. Each room is filled with light and air from the doors that open wide to the river and bridge. Smell of ocean and river (and okay, sometimes cigarette smoke from the people hanging out under our house - it’s a common stopping point for locals and tourists) greets us when we open she wooden shutters to the world every morning. I’ve traveled quite a bit and have been lucky to be a visitor in many countries. And most of the time I’m excited to see what comes next. Every once in a while, the opposite happens, and I’m just heartbroken to leave where I am. That’s the case with Tavira. Training to Lisbon tomorrow feels like a loss, like the end of a small and fleeting love affair. The Algarve, but especially Tavira, it’s small tiled homes, the cobbled streets, the Tuk Tuk guy (his name is Rodrigo by the way, not Clark), the Roman bridge, our house overlooking the river, that tiny restaurant on the top of the hill, the musicians on the bridge, that gelato shop below us, all of it, I’ll take with me when we go tomorrow. Tavira, my heart is yours.

Today was beach day, and it was gooood. We chose the eastern-most beach on Tavira Island (which is called Praia do Barril) because of the promise of soft white sand, good amenities, and the quite interesting and picturesque anchor graveyard. Tavira used to be a fishing town specializing in tuna. The industry was very profitable until the 1950s, when the shoals moved elsewhere (makes sense - if I were a tuna, I’d probably get the heck out of there too). Much of what was left behind from the trade can be seen on Barril, from these anchors, which were used to weigh down nets, to the fish houses, that have now been converted to restaurants and shops. 

Mom, George and I took the little train from the parking lot for the beach, which took less than 10 minutes. Jen and Eliza chose to walk and check out the local flora and fauna. Especially the fauna. They love the fauna. We all do. Team fauna. In short order we were beaching, all cozy on the rented beds and umbrellas. To start the day, everyone but Mom, who was left with all of our valuables to watch - sometimes we place too much trust in her - ran into the Atlantic Ocean. And it was good. Not too cold. Not too wavey (not wavy, well maybe a little). Jen and Eli snorkeled, as they tend to do. George and I bobbed like American corks. Swimming was followed quite naturally by lying around in the sun.

Lunch break happened in an excellent outdoor place that had, seriously, the best gazpacho soup I’ve ever had. At least in Portugal. Or Europe in general. It was homemade, said the adorable Portuguese waiter. Homemade gazpacho was followed by a crepe, not the best I’ve had, well, anywhere. Eliza treated herself to a pina colada, which was virgin in nature. Jen and George also ate and drank. Of course, gelato was the next step in our day, followed by lunch served to Mom beachside. 

A second swim followed lunch, we didn’t wait 30 minutes, and it didn’t matter. Eliza snorkeled more and I gently hovered in her general direction, since Jen wasn’t swimming. George joined for a short time, and then he and Jen watched Eliza and I in the water as if we were some kind of attraction. And I guess we were. A quick drying session in the sun was followed by the sad chore of packing and leaving. We trained the the parking lot, drove to our home and sulked on the patio. Our last night overlooking the river was here. And, the annoying Fado guy was playing on the bridge, not the pleasant one. One more dinner was had, this one by Jen, and therefore delicious. Port was enjoyed, Candles were lit and then did not cooperate. The sun went down and now, so do we. Tomorrow, on to Lisbon! 


The beach of the anchor graveyard


The beach train station


The cute locomotive, surely one of Thomas’ friends


Training


Made it to the beach


Old tuna shacks


Tuna industry circa mid 1900s


Beautiful tuna shack


We are in Portugal


Hello snorkelers


Jen, immersed


Anchor graveyard


So many anchors


Once more - anchors


Eli’s pina colada and my gazpacho face


Mom - our anchor and keeper of the stuff


Yo ho ho and a bottle of rum


This tree


That bridge


This view


Goodnight Tavira




























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