YDYtravelers: So many Joãos and the spectacular Ilhas das Berlengas

I found out from our driver to the Airbnb on Monday that the most common name for boys in Portugal is the lovely to say João (can’t really write how it’s said in English - it involves strictly Portuguese sounds).Not surprisingly, his name was João (which is why we were talking about it). Today, our tour guide João was fantastic and he introduced us to our boat captain João. When they talk about people here whose name is not known, they must call them João Doe. Kiss your local João. He’s bound to be a very nice Portuguese man.

All day today was spent on an incredible tour of the group of islands (and archipelago as you know) with one shining star - Ilhas das Berlnegas. Jen researched and scheduled this tour, so I didn’t know much about it before we left in the tourist staple seven passenger white van. George did not come with us, and instead elected to stay home to work on his school work. He’s super dedicated. And also not at all interested in islands and hikes and boats and the whole archipelago scene. So we were four, and were joined by two Brits (both of whom just had long-term relationships end - male grief bonding) and a young German lad (and I use that term loosely - not German - that’s not loose - but lad - loose because really he was a man). We seven, along with João rode for about an hour outside of Lisbon and then boarded the other Joao’s boat to get to Berlengas. First thing, we hiked up a pretty steep incline to an area that had a cafe, a restaurant and bathrooms. Mom and I worked our way up the paved path together, and by the time we came to the restaurant, Mom had the very good sense to stay back from the rest of the hike and chill out there while we explored more. The rest of us continued up the path to the top of the island, getting a breathtaking look at the harbor and beach below, with beautiful clear green water. Eliza and Jen discovered many birds and lizards and other such fauna (TEAM FAUNA!), enriching the hike for me and occasionally causing our current João to look at his watch, because of his timeline and desire to reach the old fort on the island, aptly named Fort of Sao João Baptista das Berlengas (those João’s sure do get around).

And when we reached it, after a more hiking and view-watching and history-learning (the Portuguese are badasses), it was clear why João was anxious for us to see it. The fort is build from the stone of the island, which is interestingly, the same thread of rock that is in the Grand Canyon - a pinkish granite, I believe (geologists, check me on this). From high above, this fortress looks like a magical Lord of The Rings kind of venue, with the arched walkways leading to the imposing structure perched on a rock and surrounded on three sides by sea. And getting closer, actually, it still looked like that. I had trouble with this stopping for picture-taking thing, which then made me the tour delayer. But the German Lad* (as he now must be called, but always, always with the asterisk) was doing the same. As I say, do as the Germans do. Er. Well. Maybe not everything. Arriving at the fort felt like coming home, if your home happens to be an ancient rock structure that doesn’t get cable or even wi-fi. So not home, but relief and a sense of accomplishment after trekking up and then back down (which was much harder work).

Our heros João (both of today’s Joãos!) helped fetch mom at the original dock, after she walked back down the steep road solo. And good thing, too, because she would have missed the glass bottom boat tour. That came next and was just so much fun. We were able to go into many of the little tunnels and passageways that the island is famous for and see all kinds of fish and other growing things (look, I’m not the scientist here) and really immersed ourselves in the sea life of das Berlengas. Post boat ride, Mom and I hung out on one of the stone benches carved into the trail to the beach while Jen and Eliza, always aquatic, snorkeled in the cove. Other than the part where Mom had to hike back up the long steep hill to use the bathroom (no bathrooms at sea level must be a rule or something), the day was perfect. It also involved gazpacho! Dang the Portuguese are good at gazpacho. I want it every day.

Tired and sore and, for some of us, wet, we filed back into the tour bus and drove back to our little place in Lisbon, sure in the knowledge that we conquered the Berlengas and it’s Joãos. The walk back home took us through some beautiful pedestrian-only streets we hadn’t seen before. Always learning, we are, when traveling. Jen made a very delicious frittata for dinner that we capped off with The Best Chocolate Cake in the World (TM). We all had two helpings and some of us enjoyed a sipping glass of Ginja with it. How’s that for a perfect day? Oh and George? He’s on track to be ahead of this classmates by the time we get back in October. Now that’s learning, travel style.